To BE or to DO, that is the question

After 30 days of trekking in Nepal, and weeks of touring sites and riding camels in central India, I found myself on the beaches of Goa.  It was here that it was pointed out to me that I am a DO'er, and maybe I should try just BEING.  This comment was from someone who is very content to DO nothing, but just sit, relax, and BE.  In my 10 days in Goa, there really was not much to DO, so I tried out just BEING.

Actually, it took a few days to get the hang of it.  I started out by DOING at few activities, like riding my bike on the beach, touring the nearby sites on a scooter, and checking out new restaurants and bars.   After a few days of DOING, I settled into just BEING.  I ate at my favorite restaurant, and relaxed at my favorite beach bar.  But BEING takes more effort than you might think.  At a street corner café, you have to be observant, and open your senses to the sights, sounds, and smells around you.  With people watching in India, there is always something entertaining to watch.  Or it might just be a herd of goats crossing the main town square heading to the pastures in the early morning, or the gang of Rickshaw drivers relaxing with a Masala Chai.  At my breakfast place, watching the gang of monkeys trying to steal the fresh Chocolate Croissants from under the bakers watchful eye, was also entertaining.  It's always something different.  At the beach bar, it might be watching the white beached whales slow roasting in the tropical sun, or just watching the sun turn to bright crimson as it sinks into the sea.  Listening is also important in mastering the art of BEING.  There is always interesting sounds in India.  It might be the early morning Roosters, or the scratching of the bamboo sweepers as they move dirt from one pile to another.  On the beach, the all encompassing music is the rhythm of the never ending surf.   The only problem with BEING is that once you've BEEN there, it's very hard to DO anything about it.

Photos of Beach BEING posted at

Photos posted here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ESwsEfH2eUcGaDy68

Dave got married and now has two kids

Yep, I finally tied the knot.  Let me tell you the story….

When meeting the local people in Nepal and India, I get asked a number of questions.  The first is "Where are you from?", the second is "How old are you?", and the 3^rd question is "How many children do you have?".   The first 2 answers go over well, but when I answer the 3^rd question and say I don't have children, and am not married, they look at me as if I'm an Alien (I know…that Alien theme again).  They then ask me "why are you not married, you don't have much time because you're so old already".  Ya, and these are people I just met… they never chat about the weather.  When I try to explain why I'm not married, they look at me with curiosity, their brows furrow, but they just can't understand it.  Being single and over 30 is not a state of being that exists over here.  The worst thing is I can't get them off the topic of me not being married.  Questions like.. "Is there something wrong with you?", "Are there no women in your country that are good enough to marry?",  "Do you like the women here?", "Maybe you should marry one of our women… they are very beautiful, don't you think?"

Well, it's getting kind of tiring, with all this explaining of my marital status.  So, I decide to get married, and also throw in a couple kids as well.  Now when I'm asked that 3^rd question, I say "Why yes, I'm married with 2 lovely children.  But my wife couldn't join me travelling, because she has to stay home and look after the kids".  I then get approving nods.  We can then move onto other topics like "How much money do you make?

I'm looking forward to just talking about the weather.

Riding the Beaches of Goa, India

After the general chaos of travelling in central India, I flew to the state of Goa for a week of R&R in a beach area.  Goa was a famous hippy backpacker hang-out in the 60’s, but today it attracts load of people from all over the world.  It’s green and gorgeous, and hassle-free.  For me, it was a perfect get-away from the ‘Real India’.

So, what is ‘Riding the Beaches’ all about you ask?  I had not heard of this activity before coming here, but when I saw a couple people riding their bikes along the beach at low tide, I had to try it.  I had my doubts when I looked at the bikes I could rent.  Think single gear, covered in rust, and weighing in at a hefty 50 pounds.  Yikes, I could hardly pedal this beast.  I’ll post some photos of my rusty ‘Beach Tank”.

I was staying in the laid back village of Benaulim in the south of Goa.  It is right in the middle of a 30km long white sand beach.  At low tide, the beach is as much as ½ km wide and very flat.  When I first tried riding on the beach, I found it way to tough in the soft sand, and ended up pushing the bike, then giving up.  When I came back later at low tide, with the tide still going out, the sand along the gentle surf, was hard and flat.  And that’s the trick.  You have to ride right along the edge of water while the tide is going out, and only when the surface is hard and flat.  Perfect for bike riding, even with a tank of a bike. 

Riding in the tropical sun with the sea breeze to keep me cool, and the surf for company is pretty amazing.  There are lots of sea birds, and eagles.  And did I mention the Beach Bars?  When you get tired and hot, you just stop for a swim, and then lunch and a refreshment at one of the many beach bar shacks along the way.  There are fishing villages with colorful wooden boats, and a few tourist beaches with fat humans being slowly roasted. But there are also long sections of beach that are completely deserted and a dream to ride. This style of riding might not make it as an event in the Tour De France, but for a Beach break activity, I would highly recommend it.

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1wXqKL4cR6B9YGri6

Thoughts by Dave - Why India is so poorly managed

I've been trying to figure the root cause of why India is so poorly managed.  What is poorly managed?   Well the government bureaucracy, and pretty much all businesses, but I'm specifically referring to hotels, restaurants, and travel agencies, which are all way down at the bottom of the 'Customer Service' scale when compared with other countries is Asia.  So why is this?

Here's my theory.  In almost all other countries in SE Asia, women run things.  In Hindu India, the women do not work in restaurants, hotels, or travel agencies.  Actually, I'm not sure Hindu women work in any areas that deal with the public, and I think most don't work at all.  In the rest of SE Asia, women do all the work, while men sit around and drink beer.  This is especially true in Vietnam, which is the economic powerhouse in SE Asia.  Another example is in Buddhist regions of Nepal where the Hotels and Guesthouses are run by the older woman matriarch of the family.  She is totally in charge and keeps a close eye on everything to ensure things are done properly.  Guesthouses are very well managed, with friendly and excellent service. In India, everything is managed and run by young men.  They all seem to be between 15 and 25 years old, and I call them the "young punks".  The better-off ones have motorbikes, and roam around in gangs, and all have an "attitude".  And these "young punks" are in charge of serving, cleaning, booking bus and train tickets, and managing hotels.  What could go wrong?

Well I have a couple of example of what can go wrong.  In my hotel, there is one manager who is about 25, educated and is a really nice guy.  He has about 6 helpers between the ages of 15 and 21.  The helpers speak little English, and just stand around until the manager tells them what to do.  I watched them cleaning the hotel, but as soon as the manager leaves the area, they all stop working and just sit around smoking and listening to music on their mobile phones.  They post a 'lookout', and as soon as the manager returns they all get up and start working again.   I'm starting to understand why everything is so dirty in Indian Hotels.  Hotel reviews for India have comments like… "…well is was kind of clean, by Indian standards",

I've noticed the similar weird performances in restaurants.  Today I ordered a beer and pizza in a rooftop restaurant in Jaisalmer.  I was the only customer, and when I ordered, the entire staff of 5 "young punks" all gathered around to take my order.  They then all proceeded into the tiny kitchen to prepare the pizza.  Two of them came out with my beer, but neither of them had a bottle opener, so they called a 3^rd one over to open the beer.  Now that's Indian efficiency and service.  Of course the beer was warm, as they hadn't bothered to check which ones where cold in their fridge.  The pizza was delivered by a "young punk" who looked about 15, who then proceeded to sit down at my table and engage me in conversation while I ate.  I had my phone on the table, which he picked up and started playing with.  He then picked up my Guidebook and started looking through it.  Of course the rest of them all just sat at an adjacent table and stared at me the whole time.  I'm sure they have no training and no idea what it takes to run a restaurant.  Reviews for restaurants say things like.. "not bad service, by Indian standards".

            Another example is when I booked a plane ticket with Air India.  I couldn't find their office, so I popped into the very modern and meticulously clean Thai Air office to ask directions.  Thai Air had no lineups, had a doorman, and the agents all smiled, bowed, and where very happy to tell me that the Air India office was just down a nearby side street.  When at the Air India office, I thought I must be in the wrong building.  It looked abandoned.  When I pushed open the unmarked door to their office, I was greeted by a crowd of 20 people all crammed into a tiny and very dirty room.  And get this… there was only one Air India agent, sitting behind a tiny little ancient computer.  He just sat they and ignored everyone in the room.  It took me over an hour just to get him to confirm my flight, which I'm pretty sure he never actually did.  I think he was playing solitaire on the tiny computer screen, and he just waved me away as if I was a dog on street.

Well this is how things run in India.  Everyone is very curious, and some try to do their best, but really they have no idea what they're doing.  Rudeness is not a trait that is discouraged.  It's certainly interesting, frustrating at time, but I seem to be learning how to get things done.

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/i44JSnADYX6jWnmi8

Man my butt hurts

I just got back from a 2 day camel safari in the Thar Desert in Rajasthan, India.  Good news/bad news....

We slept under the stars and watched the moon rise.  Stunning sand dunes, not touristy, and I was the only client the day we visited my camel driver's family hut.  Good food, and an magical experience sleeping in the dunes.

Bad news.... camels are really rough to ride and my butt is really sore.

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6iLsc8tPnZeSndAN7

What happens when a Billion People are all trying to achieve Nirvana

India is an experience that you can't imagine until you've been here.  I've been struggling with something to say to describe it, but I'll try…..

Bamboozling?  An Enigma?  In-Your-Face?  India is often described as the most multidimensional country on earth.  People love it or hate it, but usually both at the same time.  Let me try to explain.

            First, there are more than a BILLION PEOPLE in India.  Bombay alone has over 17 Million people.  This seems to factor into almost every experience.  Every town and city is crowded with an eclectic mix of people from many ethnic groups and religions.  Crowded is not something you really understand until you've been inside the teeming masses of an Indian City.  You get pushed and jostled, no matter where you go or what you're doing.  On first impressions the Indian people seem rude and pushy, but you soon realize this is an impression based on a western centric view or personal space.  Personal space in India is very close indeed.  To survive, and get anywhere, you need to push and jostle other people.  It is done in a friendly manner.  I now feel fine pushing and shoving.  It's a learned thing, and the only way to get to the front of a line.  How about personal space?  Children walk right up to you and stare into your face.  And by staring, I don't mean they just look at you and walk away.  On a local bus, a kid in the seat across the aisle stared at me for the entire 2 hour journey.  It really freaked me out.  Another time, an old man in a florescent orange turban stared at me for at least 30 minutes while I waited for a train.  Am I really so interesting? 

            Let me talk about infrastructure.   Ya, that should be interesting.  In the west we take many thing for granted.  Things like paved roads, traffic lanes + lights, and rules of the road.  Try to imagine a Billion people all moving around in a small space with no traffic lights, roads full of pot holes, and no rules of the road.  Imagine 25 lanes of run down cars, tuk-tuks, motorbikes, trucks and buses spewing exhaust, all intermixed with a mass of humanity seething along narrow city corridors.  Oh, and the noise.   There is a constant deafening noise of constant honking.  Actually, some of the tuk-tuks leave their horn on all the time.  Can you imagine?   At times, it's physically painful.  I'm considering buying earmuffs.

            How about garbage pickup.  As far as I can tell, there is none in India.  The garbage and dirt just gets swept around on the streets from one spot to another.  Walking can be a challenge as you weave you way around huge piles of steaming cow patties, and try not to get hit by speeding punks on motorbikes.

So why do people love India?   Again, it's hard to explain.  It's kind of intoxicating.   I'm not a religious person, but there is something very spiritual about India.  Religion suffuses almost every aspect of life in India.  And it's a real mixture… Hindus, Buddhists, Jainists, Sikhs, and Islam.  Where else would you find a museum dedicated to the history of Turbans.    The colorful Hindu Temples with their thousands of complex Gods and Goddeses.  Greek myths are simple compared with Hindu legends.  There are oodles of sacred sites surrounded by stirring philosophical epic stories.  Or maybe it's just the fact that there are a Billion people all trying to achieve Mokssha (Nirvana for Buddhists).  Trying to gain enough Karma to be released from the cycle of reincarnation?  Not something we think about much in our materialistic western cultures.

Or maybe it's the food.  Again, it's the diversity that rules.  There is no one Indian cuisine.  It's a wild culinary adventure.  The streets and restaurants are full of frying, simmering, sizzling, kneading, and flipping a diverse array of regional dishes.  The menus changes radically from region to region.  And it's mostly vegetation, with some of the most interesting spices in the world.  It's not boring.  No wonder the British came for the spices, and stayed for the weather.

Or maybe it's the history.  I'm not a history buff, but if you have time, watch the BBC Series called "The Story of India", narrated by a young historian named Michael Wood.  He travels throughout India by train and bus telling the history of India along the way.  Fascinating and entertaining.  Also, you really should watch "Gandhi" again.  It's really the story of the creation of India as a single country.

            Whether it's trying to understand the Indian obsession with Bollywood or the rules of Cricket, or trying to figure out what festival in on now, India always has challenges to throw at you.

In India it may not be easy to reach your destination (physically or spiritually), but Indians have always known it's the way you make the journey that counts.  I think I'm starting to get the hang of India, and take the experiences as they come.  It's the Indian way.

Photos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EvWxgHtqE5m8L2X89

Photos from India - Pushkar Camel Fair and Udaipur

Hi,

The Pushkar Camel Fair in the western Indian desert was very bizarre with Moustache and Turban competitions.  There was also a race for women carrying large pots of water on their heads.  

The town of Udaipur on a lake was more relaxing, with some great rooftop restaurants with stunning sunset views over a lake.

Photos posted at

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfFRntuzpgVrm9rN6

Having a great time, and finally getting the hang of India.  It can be challenging to say the least.  Off to Jodhpur tomorrow by bus.

Cheers,

Dave

Have I turned into an Alien?

There is something very strange going on.  When outside the tourist areas of India, I think I must turn into some sort of Alien creature.  Everyone is staring at me!  And it's not just the kids who stare, but the adults, the old people…. everyone!   

I got lost today in a poor rural area that I probably should not have been wandering around in.  I gradually realized that I had not seen a car, rickshaw, or even a camel cart for a long time.  The streets where getting very narrow, and the kids starting with the staring, and then started following me.  I felt like the Pied Piper.  Some people said "hello" (their only know English word), but most people just stared in amazement at the tall, white Alien wandering though their neighbourhood.  The stares where not unfriendly, but the hundreds of big, brown eyes watching every move I made was really starting to freak me out. 

As it started getting dark, I knew I didn't have much time to get a handle on the situation, so started asking directions…. But it was almost impossible to find anyone with any English at all.  Finally, I lucked out and spotted a monument in the distance that I had seen before and headed in that direction.  Just as the sun set, I walked out onto a busier street and flagged down a Rickshaw.  A close call…or just another adventure?   ....Dave

I'll post a few more photos tonight to the India albums

https://picasaweb.google.com/103173248988357771573

Big cows make big patties

There are cows all over India, just wandering around, blocking traffic, and sleeping in the middle of the intersections.  Everyone just leaves them alone, as they are sacred.  Once I almost got run over by a stampeding cow running down a very narrow alleyway.  But the worst is the huge piles of steaming cow patties everywhere.  You really have to be careful where you walk.

Photos
https://goo.gl/photos/QCuAUVtzJaHjuZxt5

What’s on the BBQ?

When I stepped out onto the little hotel balcony along the river Ganges to see what was being BBQ'd, I was looking right at a huge stack of burning wood with a shrouded body on the top.  Ah, so that what the BBQ tang in the air is.

Varanasi India, is one of the oldest continually inhabited place on earth, and the holiest places in India.  Hindu pilgrims come to the ghats(steps) lining the River Ganges here to wash away a lifetime of sins in the sacred waters, or to cremate their loved ones on open wood fires.  Apparently, expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death).  This was very comforting as I thought I might be dying with food poisoning in the hotel.  There are a number of hospices next to the burning Ghats, and people travel from all over India to die here. 

As the Lonely Planet Guide says… "Brace yourself.  You're about to enter one of the most blindingly colorful, unrelentingly chaotic and unapologetically indiscreet places on earth.  Varanasi takes no prisoners."

Most Ghats are used for bathing, but there are also "burning Ghats (funeral pyres)", where bodies are cremated openly in public.  The River is a fascinating mixture of people who come for ritual bathing, washing clothes, massage, playing cricket, and washing their buffaloes.  Every detail of life and death is out in the open.  Men playing cards, women socializing, boys flying kites, men urinating just about anywhere, Sadus meditating, monkeys running around the rooftops and along power lines, cow, goats, and dogs wandering around the crowds of pilgrims.

All for now, Dave

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hEoWFacrvzWzWjE36

Vomit in Varanasi

Well, I knew it would happen eventually.  Yep, after 6 weeks in Nepal, I finally got food poisoning.  But that's not the worst.  It started just as I was packing up for a flight to Varanasi, India.  I felt nauseous during the 1 hour taxi ride to the airport, and then while standing in the ½ hour security lineup to get into the Airport, I started sweating and feeling I would need a toilet very soon.  There were no toilets except inside the airport, so I walked to the front of the line, and told the security guard I was sick.  I must have looked pretty bad as he looked at me and then let me through right away.  I made it to the toilet in time and then kept notes of the nearest toilets.   On the plane I asked for an Airsick bag.  and although I didn't need it on the plane, it came in handy during the 1 hour taxi ride to my Varanasi hotel.  I then holed up in the rather grimy hotel for a day. Just as my travel medical book says, after releasing everything from both ends, I felt much better after 24 hours.  I guess it could have been worse, but the timing was definitely not good.

Cheers, Dave

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yr4BFrehrBchUU6r5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zthMHekf2vF4ddwH9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sgESNGqWiDcM3hnB9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qE5xPvtBYMXL6pEP6

30 days of trekking in Nepal under blue skies

Hi,

     I just arrived back in Kathmandu after 30 days of trekking.  The first trek was 13 days in the Annapurna region, followed by 17 days in the Everest region.  I enjoyed some stunning scenery, mostly blue sky weather, interesting villages, and very friendly people.  I found the climbing at altitudes up to 5400 meters very hard, but slow and steady seemed to work.  Sometimes it was 3 slow steps, then rest for 10 seconds, and then repeat.  I didn't get altitude sickness, but saw many who did.  There were constant helicopter rescues for people who had not  acclimatized properly.  The temperatures in the Everest region where colder than I expected.  The temperature in my room in Lobuche(5000m) was -13c in the morning with frost on the paper thin walls.  Generally nights dropped to -5c or so in the rooms, but at 5000m it felt like -15c.  Trekking in the sunshine was nice and warm, but at altitude there was about a 10c degree difference between being in the sun vs. being in the shadow.

     It was great to have a porter, and I enjoyed carrying just a light day-pack.  Not sure I could have carried a heavy pack at 5000 meters.   

     The Guesthouses and food where usually pretty good, but I still lost a fair bit of weight.  I hear this is pretty common when trekking high up.  I'm heading out for a steak dinner in a few minutes to put on some pounds.

     On Nov. 17, I fly to Varanasi, India, and am looking forward to some heat.  It should be interesting, and a challenge to my travel skills.

I've posted another photo album for the Everest Trek and a few more Kathmandu photos.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SCw8JytTtgbi2nUcA

All for now,

Dave

Flying to Lukla for the start of an 18 day trek into the Everest Region

Hi,

It will be nice to get away from all the car exhaust in Kathmandu, and up into the clear air of the high Himalayas again. I'm flying to Lukla tomorrow for the start of an 18 day trek into the Everest region.  This will be my 2nd trek in Nepal.  Can't wait.   Weather forecast is cold and clear.

Kathmandu has some interesting sites, including old temples, the crowded Thamel backpacker zone, some really insane taxi drivers, and some good restaurants.  Never boring, but really chaotic.  For a change I ordered a hot Tibet Beer called Tongba last night.  It's a fermented millet drink, and actually pretty good.  Elsie and Ramesh, my trekking agents, have arranged all my permits, flight to Lukla, bus to Pokhara, and Porter/Guides, so logistics has been pretty easy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tongba

Talk again in 18 days, after the trek.

Cheers, Dave

Dashain Festival and a Close Shave

Nepal is in the middle of the 15 day Dashain Festival.  Over the past few days I've seen thousands of goats being rounded up.  The live goats are carried in trucks, in cars, on Motorbikes, and I even saw one carried on a bicycle.  Each Hindu household sacrifices one goat to the goddess Durga.  Ritual bathing, and drenching of the goddess for days in blood symbolizes the victory of good over evil. Actually the goats did not look very happy about it.  Today is very peaceful with ritual singing and family gatherings. The goats have all gone to heaven.

The festival is also known for its emphasis on the family gatherings, as well as on a renewal of community ties. People return from all parts of the world, as well as different parts of the country, to celebrate together.

Today is "Tika day" of the festival, when a mixture of rice, yogurt and vermilion(red) is prepared by the women. This preparation is known as "tika". Elders put this tika mixture on the forehead of younger relatives to bless them with abundance in the upcoming years. The red also symbolizes the blood that ties the family together. This morning I took a small local boat to a Hindu Temple in the middle of a Lake.  The temple was the center of a pilgrimage for family members to apply Tika to each other.

Yesterday when I was Mountain Biking, I saw lots of these huge Bamboo Swings called Pings. These swings are constructed with the help of community members using traditional methods which make the use of ropes made from tough grass, bamboo sticks and wood. Heights of some swings exceed twenty feet and one can swing really high.  The kids all wanted me to stop and try their swings and get their picture taken (I'll post some in my Nepal Album).  Actually, it was kind of fun.  I even saw an elderly Hindu lady in elegant silk dress swinging like crazy on one of these bamboo contraptions. She was having a blast.

After returning from 13 days of trekking, I resembled a Yeti, with a thick beard growth.  I saw a sign saying "Handsome Parlour" so I thought I'd try this local Barber for a shave.   I was glad to see my Barber put a new blade in his straight razor, but was still pretty nervous. For just over $1, I really got pampered. He spent a good 10 minutes lathering up my face and softening the stubble.  He expertly shaved  my face, and then lathered me up again for a second pass in the other direction.  After this he used a cooling alum balm, before finishing up by cracking his knuckles over my head and performing a vigorous head and face massage - eyeballs included.  Wow, this was the closest shave I've ever had, and quite the experience.

-Dave

Stunning Trekking to the Annapurna Sanctuary

I arrived back in Pokhara, Nepal after 13 days of trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary region.  Physically it was not as hard as I thought it might be, but we had lots of time and took it slow.  The altitude only bothered my a couple days, and I then seemed to acclimatize well.  The scenery was stunning, and the local people very friendly.  There were lots of trekkers, as this is peak season, but I was always able to get a bed in a Guesthouse.  The food was pretty good too (pictures of the menu are in my Nepal Album.
I've posted a bunch more photos in my Nepal Album at:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7M66UdjtRd2i9WwL7

After relaxing for a few days in the lakeside area of Pokhara, I'll endure the 7 hour bus back to Kathmandu, and then fly to Lukla for the start of an 18 day trek to Everest Basecamp and over a high pass to Gokyo Lakes.

Cheers,

Dave

Dave is starting the 14 day Annapurna Trek

Hi,

After a couple days in Kathmandu, I'm heading into the big mountains tomorrow.  I met up with my Porter at 6:15am today, and we traveled together on the 7 hour bus trip to Pokara.  It really a spectacular ride as we climbed out of the bowl that Kathmandu sits in, and headed out along a huge mountain river and canyon.  I've got a sore butt from sitting all day, but it was never a boring ride.  Right now I'm watching the sunset over the Lakeside area, from the rooftop of my Guesthouse.  Tomorrow the "big" adventure begins, as we start trekking into the Annapurana region.  The plan is to trek for 14 days into Annapurana Basecamp at 4100 meter, via a number of mountain villages.  Right now we're at 700 meters, so we have some elevation to gain.  It's nice to get out of Kathmandu and breath some clean air.  Although Kathmandu is incredibly interesting with non-stop "action", it has some of the worst air pollution in Asia.  

I'm posting some photos to my Nepal Album, but the internet is pretty slow so not sure how many I'll get uploaded.  Talk to you again in 2 weeks.

Arrived in Kathmandu after 36 hours flying, airport transfers, and an overnight in a hotel in Bangkok

Well, I made it.  I'm in Kathmandu, almost exactly the other side of this round ball we call Earth.  Calgary > Tokyo > Bangkok > Kathmandu.  A bit grueling at times, but not really that bad.  Broke the trip up with a nice little hotel near the Bangkok airport for 5 hours sleep.  Kathmandu is an eye opener for sure.  I just arrived, and haven't got my head around it yet.  It's pretty chaotic to say the least.  Getting thru Nepal customs-immigration took almost an hour when two jumbo jets landed, and they only had 3 officials working the desk.  Chatted with a nice lady from New Zealand while we waited in line, which helped pass the time.  The taxi from the Airport to my hotel took almost an hour.  It was only 5 km, but the traffic is something out of this world.  I think the traffic here is more frightening than anything I've seen yet in Asia.  Even walking is pretty frightening.  The motorcycles are all maniacs.

     I met with Elsie and Ramesh, my Trekking agents and finalized the final details for the first trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary.  Elsie is an interesting lady.  She is a retired Bank Manager in her 70's, and runs a Charity here in Nepal.  She also co-owns a trekking agency.  She lives half the time in High River, and half the time in Nepal.  I got a kick out of her email address......  "stilltrekkin@gmail.com".  I will meet my Guide on Sunday, and head up into the mountains on Monday.  Can't wait.

-Cheers, Dave

4.5 months in Nepal, India, Burma, and the Philippines - Pretrip Planning

     This will be my 3rd big independent travel adventure since 2008.  The general strategy is to do a major trip every 2 years or so.  This time, I plan on spending about 4.5 months in Asia, focusing mainly on Nepal, India, Burma, and the Philippines.
     I'll be flying from Calgary to Kathmandu(35 hours) on Oct 3, 2012 and returning from Manilla on Feb 13, 2013.  I don't travel with a detailed itinerary, but for this trip I'll first head to Nepal to do some trekking, then ship my trekking gear back to Calgary before flying to Delhi to explore India for a month or so.  Then I'm back to Bangkok, to get a visa for Burma and a flight to Yangon.  After 3 or 4 weeks in Burma, I'll head back to Thailand, and then finally fly to the Philippines for a few weeks.

Trekking in Nepal - 6 to 7 weeks total, with 32 days of trekking - yikes!!
     I hooked up with Elsie James in September, to help with the Trekking itinerary and hiring of a Guide/Porter.  I'll start with the Annapurna Base-camp(ABC) Trek for 14 days, then spend a few days in Pokhara before heading back to Kathmandu.  If I really like the ABC trek, I'll confirm my flight to Lukla and head out on the Everest Base-camp(EBC) Trek, combining it with the high pass(Cho-La) over to the Gokyo Lakes region.  This will take about 18 days after the short flight to Lukla.  I'll be hiring a Guide/Porter in Kathmandu for both treks through Elsie James' trekking agency, so I'll only have to carry a day-pack.  This will be "Tea-house" trekking, so no camping or tents are involved, but the accommodation and meals are very basic.  Think sleeping bag, no running water, and basic meals supplied at the Tea-houses  There are some high passes, so elevation and cold temperatures are involved, but I'm not climbing any of the "trekking peaks", or using any climbing gear.  I'm not sure how much I'll like this type of long term trekking, as I've never done this type of multi-day hiking.  But, I'm really looking forward to the Nepalese cultural experiences, and the views of the "big mountains".

Exploring India - 6 to 8 weeks
India has always fascinated me, and it might involve some of the most challenging independent travel I've attempted.  They say you either love or hate India.  I was in Mumbai a few years ago to teach a technical course in Telecommunications, but that was for only a couple weeks, and I was staying in a Business class hotel.  This time is going to be a tad bit different, to say the least.  I'm not sure that my traveling skills are up to the challenge, but I guess we'll soon find out.
     I'll be starting in Delhi, then heading off to explore Rajasthan, Agra, Jaipur, Ranthambore NP, Bundi, Karauli, Udaipur, Pushkar, Orchha, Khajuraho, and Varanasi.  I'll probably fly back to Bangkok from Kolkata(Calcutta).  If I really like India, I might extend my travels to parts of the north such as Shimla and Amritsar.  South India is an option, and as flights are cheap, I mind head down to Kerala and Goa for a couple weeks, depending on how much time I have.

     I’ve been doing a bit of research for my upcoming trip, and happened across this BBC Series on India. The DVD includes six 1-hour episodes, narrated by Michael Wood. Michael who is a young historian who travels throughout India, and narrates this series with incredible energy. The narration and photography are amazing. I was really impressed by this series.  Highly recommended. 
www.pbs.org/thestoryofindia/

Burma - Myanmar - 3 to 4 weeks  (or Sri Lanka)

     I'll pick up a visa in Bangkok, and enough US cash to last 4 weeks (no ATMs, Travellers Cheques, or Credit Cards are accepted in Burma).  Then I'll fly to Yangon on Air Asia.
      Burma is very undeveloped compared to the rest of SE Asia, so it might be a bit challenging, but I'm hoping it will be very interesting.  My rough itinerary includes Yangon, Mandalay, the Bagan Temple complex, an Ayeyarwaddy riverboat, and the Inle lake region.
     Then back to Bangkok for a flight to the Philippines.

Philippines - 3 weeks
     I want to explore the rice terrace in the north, as well as one of the islands... maybe Palawan.  I hope to catch up with friends who live in the Philippines before flying back to Calgary from Manila.

Gear
After trekking in Nepal, I will ship my trekking gear back to Calgary, and travel light for the rest of the trip.  I'll take my new Deuter Travelpack which I used in Central America  I was trying to get the gear weight down to 10kg total, but it looks like it will be about the same weight as my previous trip (about 15kg total).  This includes the pack weight(3.3kg), a Netbook(1.9kg), and Camera stuff.