Costa Rica Adventure

Coast-to-Coast by Human Power Only

Laurie and I joined BikeHike.com for a Coast-to-Coast adventure in Costa Rica. It took 10 days to travel 240 km from the Pacific to the Caribbean coast. We mountain biked and hiked over jungle clad mountains and national parks, rafted down class-4 white water rivers, and kayaked into the Caribbean sea. This was a fully supported, guided trip organized by BikeHike.com and outfitted by Coast-to-Coast adventures out of San Jose. The logistics were complex with bikes, tents, whitewater rafts, kayaks, and a Toyota Land Cruiser to carry the gear. The guiding was top notch and the meals were excellent. We stayed at nice lodges, cool river camps, and community shelters in the more remote locations. Lots of elevation, mud, and river crossing. The rafting section was a highlight with continuous Class 3 and 4 rapids. We were warm, wet, and usually muddy the whole 10 days. Highly recommended.  Nov.21 to Dec.2, 2015
Photos posted here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LAjV6h4rHdfzjFERA

I've posted 4 slideshows on my Youtube Channel

Since returning from 6 months of traveling around Asia, I've pulled together 4 slideshows with music.  They range from 9 to 20 minutes in length, and are posted on my Youtube Channel.

For best quality, go to the settings icon and choose 720p(HD), and view in full-screen.
https://www.youtube.com/user/dneame/videos

Hope you enjoy

Island Life in the Philippines

Why do Filipinos speak such good English?  One word….. 'Karaoke'

Yep, there is a Karaoke machine in every town, village, bar, café, and eatery in the entire country.  The Filipinos love those very sweet love songs.  And get this…  when they start singing, the dogs and roosters join in for the melody.  Right now I'm in a tiny fishing village and it's just after sunset.  Everyone has gathered around the one and only eatery in town, and are right now listening to "Bryan Adams - Straight From The Heart".  The singer is actually not bad, but the chorus of howling dogs in the background is pretty comical.  It really is a blast, and has to put a smile on your face.

I just spent 5 days on a tiny island in the Visayas called Apo Island.  It is only 3 km around, and is inhabited by some of the loveliest and friendliest people on earth.  After only a couple days everyone greeted me with "Good morning David", or "Good evening David, how are you today?".   The people are so nice, and the kids are a blast… gathering around me and proudly escorting me to their school, where I got a tour by the Principal.  There is limited electricity (6 to 9pm only), and no fresh water on the island(rainwater only).  No computers, no internet.  The school relies on a tiny, little library, and some very dedicated teachers.  The kids are very polite and well behaved.  They start classes at 7am, and take the middle of the day off to help their family with household chores and fishing.  They return to class in the evening until the electricity goes out.   It's really a magical little island, and yes, they really love their Karaoke.

I came to Apo Island for the snorkeling and underwater life, but the memories that will stick with me are briefly getting to know some very friendly island people.  And yes, somehow Karaoke has taken on a new meaning for me.  Weird eh?

Photos from the Phillipines
https://photos.app.goo.gl/82Z3jKjcVo3TwhUKA

'For Whom the Bell Tolls' or 'Tales from the Philippines

I finally arrived in paradise, on the small tropical island of Bohol in the Philippines.  I checked into a really nice little guesthouse, with a very friendly old lady running the place.  She just laughed when I asked why no one else was staying at her hotel.  When I walked into my room I couldn't believe my luck.  It was a large room with huge windows and a nice sea breeze coming off the ocean.  When I opened the curtains on one side, I was looking at the azure blue sea.  On the other side, I was looking right at a large white Spanish Church.  Very beautiful and peaceful…..or so I thought.

Well, at exactly 5am I sat bolt upright, being suddenly awakened by VERY LOUD BELLS RINGING IN MY EARS.  After the bells, the Church music started, then a church mass being broadcast over loudspeakers.  I really didn't understand what was going on.  I had enjoyed a few beers the night before with some fishermen, and assumed this must be the church trying to wake up the drunken fishermen to get them out on the boats early, to catch the fish.  I really couldn't think of any other logical reason why someone would knowingly wake up this whole peaceful fishing village at 5 in the morning.

When I asked about it later that day, I was told this happens every day, and if there is music after the bells it means that the villagers are supposed to come to mass at the church.  At 5 in the morning!!!!!   My god, that's physically painful.

After 3 days in this very peaceful village paradise on the beach, I was extremely tired.

Beaches, diving, and tiny weird primates

After 3 days traveling in the Philippines, I finally reached the spectacular tropical island of Bohol.  It really is a little bit of paradise.  

Today I joined a scuba dive boat, as one of 3 snorkelers. The visibility was up to 30 meters, with bright sunshine.  Huge numbers of very colorful fish, giant coral, and weird looking squid.   We even saw a very poisonous meter long Sea Snake, which came a little too close for comfort.  When I ventured over the underwater drop-off wall, peering down into the abyss, I say this giant ball of large pike was being pushed up by something just below me.  I didn't hang about to find out what was chasing them.

Yesterday, I rented a motorbike to ride through the interior "chocolate hills".  There was almost no traffic, and I really enjoyed the breeze while riding.  Attached is photo of a Tarsier, which is the smallest primate on earth.  Each eyeball is 16 mm in diameter, which is larger than their entire brain.  They sleep with their eyes open, and can't move their eyeballs, but they can rotate their heads almost 360 degrees to look around. Very weird.

Not a backpacker in sight !!

My cheap Tiger Air flight landed in Clark, Philippines yesterday. I kind of knew what to expect, but thought it would be better than arriving in Manila at midnight.  Well, Angeles/Clark is just as bad as I thought it would be.  It's full of Sex Workers and their older male customers.  It used to be the main US Air Force Base in the Philippines.  Apparently at it's peak, there were 100,000 sex workers here.  Now there are only 10,000.

The only tourists I've seen are older men with very young Filippino girls on their arms.   Not a backpacker in sight.

I fly to the islands and beaches in the Visayas tonight.  It has some of the best diving, snorkeling and beaches in the world.  Can't wait to get out of here.  This place is creeping me out.

Great Thai food and massages, and some new photos from Dave

The tour of Asia continues.  I think I was getting a little burnt out with all the travelling in India and Burma, but I'm now recovering on the beaches in Thailand.  Hey, someone has to do it.

I flew from Burma to Thailand on Feb. 5, and enjoyed some great Thai Food and Thai Massages in Bangkok.  Originally I planned on just a quick stopover in Thailand, since I've been here before.  But, I was moving my flight dates anyways, so decide on adding 3 weeks in Thailand.  

I met up with Stefan by chance in Bangkok.  We had traveled together for a few days in Burma, and get along really well, so we decided to head to Ko Chang, which is a nice island only 5 hours by bus and boat from Bangkok.  I plan on spending about 12 days on this island before flying to the Philippines for a month.  Yesterday we rented Motorbikes and toured the coastline of this mountainous, jungle clad island.  We also rented a kayak for a couple days, and paddled through the Mangrove forests on the remote east coast..  I think it might be hard to leave this paradise.

I've posted a new album on Bangkok and the beaches and jungles of Ko Chang Island

Photos posted at:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UfMBTquWwvTZ8UYy9

Burma
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xEG58unnuPyD3YHP6

Kuala Lumpur
https://photos.app.goo.gl/r2cUPm48S4UxD9zaA

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

To enjoy the Good in life, you must experience some Bad. This is just

so you have something to compare it with. Experiencing the Ugly will

also gives you some perspective, and it's usually not something you will

forget.

Here are some of my traveling experiences – Good, Bad, and Ugly

The Good

• Climbing a large ridge above Annapurna Base Camp up to 4500 meters. Amazing mountain vistas in bright sunshine
• The stunning views of the big mountains from the peaks of Kala Patar and Gokyo Ri in the Everest region of Nepal
• Deep mountain valleys, waterfalls, wild rivers, and friendly villages in the Annapurna region of Nepal
• Indian Trains have pros and cons, but they are a wonderful way to meet local families and see the countryside. Night trains are much more comfortable than buses, especially in the better ticket classes. I slept very well with clean sheets and blankets. 
• 30-days of blue sky while trekking in the high mountains of the

Everest Region in Nepal

• The sweet, lovely, and honest people of Burma. This country has

been isolated from the rest of the world for so long, and is just now

starting to open up. The people are friendly and helpful, and even

the taxi drivers are honest

• A dawn boat trip down the Ganges River in Varanasi, India. All

aspects of life and death are out in the open. It is something very

spiritual, even for a hardened agnostic

• The sunset views from a rooftop cafe in Udaipur, India, while

drinking a cold beer from a teapot. The sun dipped behind the white

marble fortress on an island in the middle of the lake, while the

Muslim call to prayer echoed around the city

• A camel trek into the deserts of Rajasthan. Sleeping under the

stars in the sand dunes, watching shooting stars, and then watching

the moon rise. The farting camels sleeping nearby just added to the

experience. The next day was just the Camel driver and myself, and

having tea with his extended family in the desert was an experience

I'll not forget

• The diverse food in India. There is no one Indian cuisine. It's a

wild culinary adventure of frying, simmering, sizzling, kneading, and

flipping. The menus changes radically from region to region and

include flakey parathas, Tandorri chicken that melts in your mouth,

Garlic/butter Nans, Paneer Curries, Jeera Rice, the spicy Fish Curries

and Prawns of Kerala, the Fruit Lassi's that are so thick you need a

spoon, strong coffees in the south, and teas in the north, Dosas in

the south which are a family of large rice-flour crepes served with a

bowl of hot sambar, and another bowl of cooling coconut chatni. After

2 months in India, the food was still an exciting adventure every day.

• Meeting other travelers along the way and sharing experiences and

recommendations

• Bike riding next to the surf on the Beaches of Goa.  The 28 km long beach in Benaulim is stunning.

• Walking the beaches of Varkala, and visiting the fishing villages

along the way

• The porter I had for the Everest Trek. He spoke no English, but we

got along really well. He was really helpful, and a happy, fun person

to be with.

• The comforts and ease of modern Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia after

spending 2 months in India. Wow, paved lighted streets, a luxury

smooth riding bus from the Airport, a clean room with Air-Con, and

then an ice cold beer with tasty Malaysian food. It's just not this

easy in India

• The tiny 5 room Guesthouse I stayed at in Varkala, India. Lovely

and Jinnu are sisters who run the guesthouse and really went out of

their way to make me feel at home. I didn't want to leave.

• Watching the sun dip into the sea and listening to the ocean surf,

while drinking a frosty beer at my favorite beach bar in Goa

• The exotic Camel Fair in Pushkar, India. Camel drivers come from

all over Rajhastan to trade camels, and participate in events like

Horse and Camel Judging, and Mustache and Turban competitions.

Nothing boring here. Every time I turned a corner, I found myself

looking at things I couldn't quite believe.

The Bad

• Bed-bugs in a “first class” Indian sleeper train
• More Bed bugs in a Yangon guesthouse
• The Annapurna trek in Nepal was pretty crowded at times
• Saddle sores from the Camel Trek that took a week to heal. Sitting

was painful.

• The young porter I had for the Annapurna Trek. He was just like a

moody teenager. After I threaten to fire him he improved a lot

• Almost getting hypothermia in an ice cold night bus in Burma. The

AC was on full blast for 10 hours, and even though I had all my warm

clothes I had on, I was actually shaking. I ended up with a cold

after this trip.

• Traveler's Diarrhea a number of times. I took a Cipro Antibiotic

right away when this hit, and it usually only lasted a day

• The bureaucratic process of booking train tickets in India. Train

tickets are usually sold out months in advance. I finally bought an

Indian Mobile phone and applied for and got connected with the online

Indian booking system. This helped immensely, but took more than a

week to get sorted out
• Getting a Visa for Burma in Kuala Lumpur.  It took 2 days, and then the Burmese Embassy lost my passport.  Yikes!  I was standing in a crowd of over 100 people at the Burmese Embassy, and the clerk kept saying they did not have my Passport.  I almost freaked out.  Then I thought I heard someone saying "Mister David Canada" from somewhere in the crowd behind me.  I turned around and this guy was waving a passport.  It turned out they had given my passport to the wrong person.   Was I ever happy to get it back.

• The touts and Rickshaw drivers in India. They must be the most

dishonest and rude people I've ever met. Expect a scam and you won't

be disappointed. I learned to be just rude, which actually helped a

lot.

• Missing a flight in India. It cost me a few bucks, but I did get to

enjoy a few more days at the beach in Varkala. It was totally my

fault. Lessoned learned.

• Getting a sore butt, and stiff legs from all the hour long bus

rides. Anything over 8 hours is a bit painful

The Ugly

• Food poisoning hit me in the taxi while heading to the airport for

my flight from Kathmandu to Varanasi. My stomach said "NO f#$@%$ WAY"

to the breakfast I had eaten, and suddenly tried to expel it from both

ends. I just stumbled right through security at the airport, and

luckily I always made it to the toilet in time. But the airsick bags

from the plane came in handy in the taxi to my hotel. It took me a

week to recover, even with good drugs. Here's the kicker… when I

finally arrived at my dusty cheap hotel in Varanasi, I opened the

balcony doors and saw bodies being cremated right below me on the

Ganges river. I suddenly realized that my room was not covered in

dust, but human ash. I almost lost it.

Overall the good experiences outweigh the bad by far, but we need a

few bad experiences just to keep some perspective. It just makes the

good experiences seem that much better.

Just when I thought I had gotten the hang of travelling in India

Many places in India go by a number of different names.  Bombay is now Mumbai, Calcutta is now Kolkata, etc.

On the day I was leaving India and flying to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, I took a taxi to the airport.  I gave myself lots of time and arrived a good 4 hours before the flight.  Well, the guidebook said the flight goes from Trivandrum, sometimes called Thiruvananthapuram, to Kuala Lumpur.  So I went ahead and booked online with Air Asia.  The airport code came up as TRZ.  No problem.

Well, at the Trivandrum Airport, I got a lot of confused looks from the check-in staff, and after much discussion in Hindi and some broken English, I suddenly realized I was at the wrong airport.  Yikes!  My flight left from Tiruchirapalli, sometimes called Trichy, and not Trivandrum, sometimes called Thiruvananthapuram.  So, how far is Tiruchirapalli, sometimes called Trichy, from Trivandrum, sometimes called Thiruvananthapuram?  Well, I ask that question.  "6 hours minimum by "fast" taxi" was the general consensus.

            So after some contemplation, I headed back to my beach hotel and stayed another 3 days, rebooking flights, and triple-checking the names this time.  Lessons learned.

Cultural Differences, or Elegant Belching Women

The women in India dress very elegantly in silk saris.  But I was shocked the first time a stunningly beautiful woman, who was very richly dressed, walked past me and belched loudly.  She just opened her mouth and let it rip.  The first time this happened I though the woman was being rude, but after it happened a number of times in different places and situations, I realized that belching is very acceptable in the Indian culture.  I only heard women belching, and not men.   Weird.

But Indian men scratch their genitals in public.  I soon realized that men adjusting themselves and scratching their genitals openly in public is perfectly acceptable in India.  Men also piss anywhere that is convenient, which gives India a very distinctive smell that I'll miss.  Women don't relieve themselves in public, just the belching thing.

Pushing to the front of a lineup is also normal in India, and I soon learned do likewise.  Once at a Railway station lineup I almost knocked over an Indian teenager who was starting to piss me off with his shoving and edging in front of me in the queue.  I towered over people with my backpack and soon perfected the technique of swinging my backpack to the side when someone tried to nudge in front of me.  It worked well.

Private property is viewed differently in India.  For example, if you put your newspaper or book down on a bus or train, someone will almost immediately pick it up and start reading it.   It's the norm here.  If you put something on your seat to hold it, don't be surprised your jacket or pack has been moved and your seat taken when you get back.  If a body is not in a seat, it's up for grabs in India.  There is no such thing as "holding" a seat by putting on of your possessions on the seat.

            Almost all the women in India are lovely and friendly, but the young men, especially the 15 to 25 age group, are a pain in the ass sometimes.  They tend to roam around in gangs with nothing to do but bother tourists and make a general nuisance of themselves. But here's the clincher.  They walk around hand-in-hand, or with arms around one another.  In western cultures only gay men do this, but in India all men walk around hand-in-hand.

            Here's a little one.  When drinking out of a bottle, Indians do not let the container touch their mouth.  They tilt the bottle and pour it into their mouth, but without putting their lips to the bottle.  Everyone drinks this way and it might have something to do with sharing water bottles around.

Photos posted here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yK7YQiRckFoFj3wL9

To BE or to DO, that is the question

After 30 days of trekking in Nepal, and weeks of touring sites and riding camels in central India, I found myself on the beaches of Goa.  It was here that it was pointed out to me that I am a DO'er, and maybe I should try just BEING.  This comment was from someone who is very content to DO nothing, but just sit, relax, and BE.  In my 10 days in Goa, there really was not much to DO, so I tried out just BEING.

Actually, it took a few days to get the hang of it.  I started out by DOING at few activities, like riding my bike on the beach, touring the nearby sites on a scooter, and checking out new restaurants and bars.   After a few days of DOING, I settled into just BEING.  I ate at my favorite restaurant, and relaxed at my favorite beach bar.  But BEING takes more effort than you might think.  At a street corner café, you have to be observant, and open your senses to the sights, sounds, and smells around you.  With people watching in India, there is always something entertaining to watch.  Or it might just be a herd of goats crossing the main town square heading to the pastures in the early morning, or the gang of Rickshaw drivers relaxing with a Masala Chai.  At my breakfast place, watching the gang of monkeys trying to steal the fresh Chocolate Croissants from under the bakers watchful eye, was also entertaining.  It's always something different.  At the beach bar, it might be watching the white beached whales slow roasting in the tropical sun, or just watching the sun turn to bright crimson as it sinks into the sea.  Listening is also important in mastering the art of BEING.  There is always interesting sounds in India.  It might be the early morning Roosters, or the scratching of the bamboo sweepers as they move dirt from one pile to another.  On the beach, the all encompassing music is the rhythm of the never ending surf.   The only problem with BEING is that once you've BEEN there, it's very hard to DO anything about it.

Photos of Beach BEING posted at

Photos posted here
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ESwsEfH2eUcGaDy68

Dave got married and now has two kids

Yep, I finally tied the knot.  Let me tell you the story….

When meeting the local people in Nepal and India, I get asked a number of questions.  The first is "Where are you from?", the second is "How old are you?", and the 3^rd question is "How many children do you have?".   The first 2 answers go over well, but when I answer the 3^rd question and say I don't have children, and am not married, they look at me as if I'm an Alien (I know…that Alien theme again).  They then ask me "why are you not married, you don't have much time because you're so old already".  Ya, and these are people I just met… they never chat about the weather.  When I try to explain why I'm not married, they look at me with curiosity, their brows furrow, but they just can't understand it.  Being single and over 30 is not a state of being that exists over here.  The worst thing is I can't get them off the topic of me not being married.  Questions like.. "Is there something wrong with you?", "Are there no women in your country that are good enough to marry?",  "Do you like the women here?", "Maybe you should marry one of our women… they are very beautiful, don't you think?"

Well, it's getting kind of tiring, with all this explaining of my marital status.  So, I decide to get married, and also throw in a couple kids as well.  Now when I'm asked that 3^rd question, I say "Why yes, I'm married with 2 lovely children.  But my wife couldn't join me travelling, because she has to stay home and look after the kids".  I then get approving nods.  We can then move onto other topics like "How much money do you make?

I'm looking forward to just talking about the weather.

Riding the Beaches of Goa, India

After the general chaos of travelling in central India, I flew to the state of Goa for a week of R&R in a beach area.  Goa was a famous hippy backpacker hang-out in the 60’s, but today it attracts load of people from all over the world.  It’s green and gorgeous, and hassle-free.  For me, it was a perfect get-away from the ‘Real India’.

So, what is ‘Riding the Beaches’ all about you ask?  I had not heard of this activity before coming here, but when I saw a couple people riding their bikes along the beach at low tide, I had to try it.  I had my doubts when I looked at the bikes I could rent.  Think single gear, covered in rust, and weighing in at a hefty 50 pounds.  Yikes, I could hardly pedal this beast.  I’ll post some photos of my rusty ‘Beach Tank”.

I was staying in the laid back village of Benaulim in the south of Goa.  It is right in the middle of a 30km long white sand beach.  At low tide, the beach is as much as ½ km wide and very flat.  When I first tried riding on the beach, I found it way to tough in the soft sand, and ended up pushing the bike, then giving up.  When I came back later at low tide, with the tide still going out, the sand along the gentle surf, was hard and flat.  And that’s the trick.  You have to ride right along the edge of water while the tide is going out, and only when the surface is hard and flat.  Perfect for bike riding, even with a tank of a bike. 

Riding in the tropical sun with the sea breeze to keep me cool, and the surf for company is pretty amazing.  There are lots of sea birds, and eagles.  And did I mention the Beach Bars?  When you get tired and hot, you just stop for a swim, and then lunch and a refreshment at one of the many beach bar shacks along the way.  There are fishing villages with colorful wooden boats, and a few tourist beaches with fat humans being slowly roasted. But there are also long sections of beach that are completely deserted and a dream to ride. This style of riding might not make it as an event in the Tour De France, but for a Beach break activity, I would highly recommend it.

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1wXqKL4cR6B9YGri6

Thoughts by Dave - Why India is so poorly managed

I've been trying to figure the root cause of why India is so poorly managed.  What is poorly managed?   Well the government bureaucracy, and pretty much all businesses, but I'm specifically referring to hotels, restaurants, and travel agencies, which are all way down at the bottom of the 'Customer Service' scale when compared with other countries is Asia.  So why is this?

Here's my theory.  In almost all other countries in SE Asia, women run things.  In Hindu India, the women do not work in restaurants, hotels, or travel agencies.  Actually, I'm not sure Hindu women work in any areas that deal with the public, and I think most don't work at all.  In the rest of SE Asia, women do all the work, while men sit around and drink beer.  This is especially true in Vietnam, which is the economic powerhouse in SE Asia.  Another example is in Buddhist regions of Nepal where the Hotels and Guesthouses are run by the older woman matriarch of the family.  She is totally in charge and keeps a close eye on everything to ensure things are done properly.  Guesthouses are very well managed, with friendly and excellent service. In India, everything is managed and run by young men.  They all seem to be between 15 and 25 years old, and I call them the "young punks".  The better-off ones have motorbikes, and roam around in gangs, and all have an "attitude".  And these "young punks" are in charge of serving, cleaning, booking bus and train tickets, and managing hotels.  What could go wrong?

Well I have a couple of example of what can go wrong.  In my hotel, there is one manager who is about 25, educated and is a really nice guy.  He has about 6 helpers between the ages of 15 and 21.  The helpers speak little English, and just stand around until the manager tells them what to do.  I watched them cleaning the hotel, but as soon as the manager leaves the area, they all stop working and just sit around smoking and listening to music on their mobile phones.  They post a 'lookout', and as soon as the manager returns they all get up and start working again.   I'm starting to understand why everything is so dirty in Indian Hotels.  Hotel reviews for India have comments like… "…well is was kind of clean, by Indian standards",

I've noticed the similar weird performances in restaurants.  Today I ordered a beer and pizza in a rooftop restaurant in Jaisalmer.  I was the only customer, and when I ordered, the entire staff of 5 "young punks" all gathered around to take my order.  They then all proceeded into the tiny kitchen to prepare the pizza.  Two of them came out with my beer, but neither of them had a bottle opener, so they called a 3^rd one over to open the beer.  Now that's Indian efficiency and service.  Of course the beer was warm, as they hadn't bothered to check which ones where cold in their fridge.  The pizza was delivered by a "young punk" who looked about 15, who then proceeded to sit down at my table and engage me in conversation while I ate.  I had my phone on the table, which he picked up and started playing with.  He then picked up my Guidebook and started looking through it.  Of course the rest of them all just sat at an adjacent table and stared at me the whole time.  I'm sure they have no training and no idea what it takes to run a restaurant.  Reviews for restaurants say things like.. "not bad service, by Indian standards".

            Another example is when I booked a plane ticket with Air India.  I couldn't find their office, so I popped into the very modern and meticulously clean Thai Air office to ask directions.  Thai Air had no lineups, had a doorman, and the agents all smiled, bowed, and where very happy to tell me that the Air India office was just down a nearby side street.  When at the Air India office, I thought I must be in the wrong building.  It looked abandoned.  When I pushed open the unmarked door to their office, I was greeted by a crowd of 20 people all crammed into a tiny and very dirty room.  And get this… there was only one Air India agent, sitting behind a tiny little ancient computer.  He just sat they and ignored everyone in the room.  It took me over an hour just to get him to confirm my flight, which I'm pretty sure he never actually did.  I think he was playing solitaire on the tiny computer screen, and he just waved me away as if I was a dog on street.

Well this is how things run in India.  Everyone is very curious, and some try to do their best, but really they have no idea what they're doing.  Rudeness is not a trait that is discouraged.  It's certainly interesting, frustrating at time, but I seem to be learning how to get things done.

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/i44JSnADYX6jWnmi8

Man my butt hurts

I just got back from a 2 day camel safari in the Thar Desert in Rajasthan, India.  Good news/bad news....

We slept under the stars and watched the moon rise.  Stunning sand dunes, not touristy, and I was the only client the day we visited my camel driver's family hut.  Good food, and an magical experience sleeping in the dunes.

Bad news.... camels are really rough to ride and my butt is really sore.

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6iLsc8tPnZeSndAN7

What happens when a Billion People are all trying to achieve Nirvana

India is an experience that you can't imagine until you've been here.  I've been struggling with something to say to describe it, but I'll try…..

Bamboozling?  An Enigma?  In-Your-Face?  India is often described as the most multidimensional country on earth.  People love it or hate it, but usually both at the same time.  Let me try to explain.

            First, there are more than a BILLION PEOPLE in India.  Bombay alone has over 17 Million people.  This seems to factor into almost every experience.  Every town and city is crowded with an eclectic mix of people from many ethnic groups and religions.  Crowded is not something you really understand until you've been inside the teeming masses of an Indian City.  You get pushed and jostled, no matter where you go or what you're doing.  On first impressions the Indian people seem rude and pushy, but you soon realize this is an impression based on a western centric view or personal space.  Personal space in India is very close indeed.  To survive, and get anywhere, you need to push and jostle other people.  It is done in a friendly manner.  I now feel fine pushing and shoving.  It's a learned thing, and the only way to get to the front of a line.  How about personal space?  Children walk right up to you and stare into your face.  And by staring, I don't mean they just look at you and walk away.  On a local bus, a kid in the seat across the aisle stared at me for the entire 2 hour journey.  It really freaked me out.  Another time, an old man in a florescent orange turban stared at me for at least 30 minutes while I waited for a train.  Am I really so interesting? 

            Let me talk about infrastructure.   Ya, that should be interesting.  In the west we take many thing for granted.  Things like paved roads, traffic lanes + lights, and rules of the road.  Try to imagine a Billion people all moving around in a small space with no traffic lights, roads full of pot holes, and no rules of the road.  Imagine 25 lanes of run down cars, tuk-tuks, motorbikes, trucks and buses spewing exhaust, all intermixed with a mass of humanity seething along narrow city corridors.  Oh, and the noise.   There is a constant deafening noise of constant honking.  Actually, some of the tuk-tuks leave their horn on all the time.  Can you imagine?   At times, it's physically painful.  I'm considering buying earmuffs.

            How about garbage pickup.  As far as I can tell, there is none in India.  The garbage and dirt just gets swept around on the streets from one spot to another.  Walking can be a challenge as you weave you way around huge piles of steaming cow patties, and try not to get hit by speeding punks on motorbikes.

So why do people love India?   Again, it's hard to explain.  It's kind of intoxicating.   I'm not a religious person, but there is something very spiritual about India.  Religion suffuses almost every aspect of life in India.  And it's a real mixture… Hindus, Buddhists, Jainists, Sikhs, and Islam.  Where else would you find a museum dedicated to the history of Turbans.    The colorful Hindu Temples with their thousands of complex Gods and Goddeses.  Greek myths are simple compared with Hindu legends.  There are oodles of sacred sites surrounded by stirring philosophical epic stories.  Or maybe it's just the fact that there are a Billion people all trying to achieve Mokssha (Nirvana for Buddhists).  Trying to gain enough Karma to be released from the cycle of reincarnation?  Not something we think about much in our materialistic western cultures.

Or maybe it's the food.  Again, it's the diversity that rules.  There is no one Indian cuisine.  It's a wild culinary adventure.  The streets and restaurants are full of frying, simmering, sizzling, kneading, and flipping a diverse array of regional dishes.  The menus changes radically from region to region.  And it's mostly vegetation, with some of the most interesting spices in the world.  It's not boring.  No wonder the British came for the spices, and stayed for the weather.

Or maybe it's the history.  I'm not a history buff, but if you have time, watch the BBC Series called "The Story of India", narrated by a young historian named Michael Wood.  He travels throughout India by train and bus telling the history of India along the way.  Fascinating and entertaining.  Also, you really should watch "Gandhi" again.  It's really the story of the creation of India as a single country.

            Whether it's trying to understand the Indian obsession with Bollywood or the rules of Cricket, or trying to figure out what festival in on now, India always has challenges to throw at you.

In India it may not be easy to reach your destination (physically or spiritually), but Indians have always known it's the way you make the journey that counts.  I think I'm starting to get the hang of India, and take the experiences as they come.  It's the Indian way.

Photos

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EvWxgHtqE5m8L2X89

Photos from India - Pushkar Camel Fair and Udaipur

Hi,

The Pushkar Camel Fair in the western Indian desert was very bizarre with Moustache and Turban competitions.  There was also a race for women carrying large pots of water on their heads.  

The town of Udaipur on a lake was more relaxing, with some great rooftop restaurants with stunning sunset views over a lake.

Photos posted at

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfFRntuzpgVrm9rN6

Having a great time, and finally getting the hang of India.  It can be challenging to say the least.  Off to Jodhpur tomorrow by bus.

Cheers,

Dave

Have I turned into an Alien?

There is something very strange going on.  When outside the tourist areas of India, I think I must turn into some sort of Alien creature.  Everyone is staring at me!  And it's not just the kids who stare, but the adults, the old people…. everyone!   

I got lost today in a poor rural area that I probably should not have been wandering around in.  I gradually realized that I had not seen a car, rickshaw, or even a camel cart for a long time.  The streets where getting very narrow, and the kids starting with the staring, and then started following me.  I felt like the Pied Piper.  Some people said "hello" (their only know English word), but most people just stared in amazement at the tall, white Alien wandering though their neighbourhood.  The stares where not unfriendly, but the hundreds of big, brown eyes watching every move I made was really starting to freak me out. 

As it started getting dark, I knew I didn't have much time to get a handle on the situation, so started asking directions…. But it was almost impossible to find anyone with any English at all.  Finally, I lucked out and spotted a monument in the distance that I had seen before and headed in that direction.  Just as the sun set, I walked out onto a busier street and flagged down a Rickshaw.  A close call…or just another adventure?   ....Dave

I'll post a few more photos tonight to the India albums

https://picasaweb.google.com/103173248988357771573

Big cows make big patties

There are cows all over India, just wandering around, blocking traffic, and sleeping in the middle of the intersections.  Everyone just leaves them alone, as they are sacred.  Once I almost got run over by a stampeding cow running down a very narrow alleyway.  But the worst is the huge piles of steaming cow patties everywhere.  You really have to be careful where you walk.

Photos
https://goo.gl/photos/QCuAUVtzJaHjuZxt5

What’s on the BBQ?

When I stepped out onto the little hotel balcony along the river Ganges to see what was being BBQ'd, I was looking right at a huge stack of burning wood with a shrouded body on the top.  Ah, so that what the BBQ tang in the air is.

Varanasi India, is one of the oldest continually inhabited place on earth, and the holiest places in India.  Hindu pilgrims come to the ghats(steps) lining the River Ganges here to wash away a lifetime of sins in the sacred waters, or to cremate their loved ones on open wood fires.  Apparently, expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death).  This was very comforting as I thought I might be dying with food poisoning in the hotel.  There are a number of hospices next to the burning Ghats, and people travel from all over India to die here. 

As the Lonely Planet Guide says… "Brace yourself.  You're about to enter one of the most blindingly colorful, unrelentingly chaotic and unapologetically indiscreet places on earth.  Varanasi takes no prisoners."

Most Ghats are used for bathing, but there are also "burning Ghats (funeral pyres)", where bodies are cremated openly in public.  The River is a fascinating mixture of people who come for ritual bathing, washing clothes, massage, playing cricket, and washing their buffaloes.  Every detail of life and death is out in the open.  Men playing cards, women socializing, boys flying kites, men urinating just about anywhere, Sadus meditating, monkeys running around the rooftops and along power lines, cow, goats, and dogs wandering around the crowds of pilgrims.

All for now, Dave

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hEoWFacrvzWzWjE36

Vomit in Varanasi

Well, I knew it would happen eventually.  Yep, after 6 weeks in Nepal, I finally got food poisoning.  But that's not the worst.  It started just as I was packing up for a flight to Varanasi, India.  I felt nauseous during the 1 hour taxi ride to the airport, and then while standing in the ½ hour security lineup to get into the Airport, I started sweating and feeling I would need a toilet very soon.  There were no toilets except inside the airport, so I walked to the front of the line, and told the security guard I was sick.  I must have looked pretty bad as he looked at me and then let me through right away.  I made it to the toilet in time and then kept notes of the nearest toilets.   On the plane I asked for an Airsick bag.  and although I didn't need it on the plane, it came in handy during the 1 hour taxi ride to my Varanasi hotel.  I then holed up in the rather grimy hotel for a day. Just as my travel medical book says, after releasing everything from both ends, I felt much better after 24 hours.  I guess it could have been worse, but the timing was definitely not good.

Cheers, Dave

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yr4BFrehrBchUU6r5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zthMHekf2vF4ddwH9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sgESNGqWiDcM3hnB9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qE5xPvtBYMXL6pEP6

30 days of trekking in Nepal under blue skies

Hi,

     I just arrived back in Kathmandu after 30 days of trekking.  The first trek was 13 days in the Annapurna region, followed by 17 days in the Everest region.  I enjoyed some stunning scenery, mostly blue sky weather, interesting villages, and very friendly people.  I found the climbing at altitudes up to 5400 meters very hard, but slow and steady seemed to work.  Sometimes it was 3 slow steps, then rest for 10 seconds, and then repeat.  I didn't get altitude sickness, but saw many who did.  There were constant helicopter rescues for people who had not  acclimatized properly.  The temperatures in the Everest region where colder than I expected.  The temperature in my room in Lobuche(5000m) was -13c in the morning with frost on the paper thin walls.  Generally nights dropped to -5c or so in the rooms, but at 5000m it felt like -15c.  Trekking in the sunshine was nice and warm, but at altitude there was about a 10c degree difference between being in the sun vs. being in the shadow.

     It was great to have a porter, and I enjoyed carrying just a light day-pack.  Not sure I could have carried a heavy pack at 5000 meters.   

     The Guesthouses and food where usually pretty good, but I still lost a fair bit of weight.  I hear this is pretty common when trekking high up.  I'm heading out for a steak dinner in a few minutes to put on some pounds.

     On Nov. 17, I fly to Varanasi, India, and am looking forward to some heat.  It should be interesting, and a challenge to my travel skills.

I've posted another photo album for the Everest Trek and a few more Kathmandu photos.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SCw8JytTtgbi2nUcA

All for now,

Dave

Flying to Lukla for the start of an 18 day trek into the Everest Region

Hi,

It will be nice to get away from all the car exhaust in Kathmandu, and up into the clear air of the high Himalayas again. I'm flying to Lukla tomorrow for the start of an 18 day trek into the Everest region.  This will be my 2nd trek in Nepal.  Can't wait.   Weather forecast is cold and clear.

Kathmandu has some interesting sites, including old temples, the crowded Thamel backpacker zone, some really insane taxi drivers, and some good restaurants.  Never boring, but really chaotic.  For a change I ordered a hot Tibet Beer called Tongba last night.  It's a fermented millet drink, and actually pretty good.  Elsie and Ramesh, my trekking agents, have arranged all my permits, flight to Lukla, bus to Pokhara, and Porter/Guides, so logistics has been pretty easy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tongba

Talk again in 18 days, after the trek.

Cheers, Dave

Dashain Festival and a Close Shave

Nepal is in the middle of the 15 day Dashain Festival.  Over the past few days I've seen thousands of goats being rounded up.  The live goats are carried in trucks, in cars, on Motorbikes, and I even saw one carried on a bicycle.  Each Hindu household sacrifices one goat to the goddess Durga.  Ritual bathing, and drenching of the goddess for days in blood symbolizes the victory of good over evil. Actually the goats did not look very happy about it.  Today is very peaceful with ritual singing and family gatherings. The goats have all gone to heaven.

The festival is also known for its emphasis on the family gatherings, as well as on a renewal of community ties. People return from all parts of the world, as well as different parts of the country, to celebrate together.

Today is "Tika day" of the festival, when a mixture of rice, yogurt and vermilion(red) is prepared by the women. This preparation is known as "tika". Elders put this tika mixture on the forehead of younger relatives to bless them with abundance in the upcoming years. The red also symbolizes the blood that ties the family together. This morning I took a small local boat to a Hindu Temple in the middle of a Lake.  The temple was the center of a pilgrimage for family members to apply Tika to each other.

Yesterday when I was Mountain Biking, I saw lots of these huge Bamboo Swings called Pings. These swings are constructed with the help of community members using traditional methods which make the use of ropes made from tough grass, bamboo sticks and wood. Heights of some swings exceed twenty feet and one can swing really high.  The kids all wanted me to stop and try their swings and get their picture taken (I'll post some in my Nepal Album).  Actually, it was kind of fun.  I even saw an elderly Hindu lady in elegant silk dress swinging like crazy on one of these bamboo contraptions. She was having a blast.

After returning from 13 days of trekking, I resembled a Yeti, with a thick beard growth.  I saw a sign saying "Handsome Parlour" so I thought I'd try this local Barber for a shave.   I was glad to see my Barber put a new blade in his straight razor, but was still pretty nervous. For just over $1, I really got pampered. He spent a good 10 minutes lathering up my face and softening the stubble.  He expertly shaved  my face, and then lathered me up again for a second pass in the other direction.  After this he used a cooling alum balm, before finishing up by cracking his knuckles over my head and performing a vigorous head and face massage - eyeballs included.  Wow, this was the closest shave I've ever had, and quite the experience.

-Dave

Stunning Trekking to the Annapurna Sanctuary

I arrived back in Pokhara, Nepal after 13 days of trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary region.  Physically it was not as hard as I thought it might be, but we had lots of time and took it slow.  The altitude only bothered my a couple days, and I then seemed to acclimatize well.  The scenery was stunning, and the local people very friendly.  There were lots of trekkers, as this is peak season, but I was always able to get a bed in a Guesthouse.  The food was pretty good too (pictures of the menu are in my Nepal Album.
I've posted a bunch more photos in my Nepal Album at:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7M66UdjtRd2i9WwL7

After relaxing for a few days in the lakeside area of Pokhara, I'll endure the 7 hour bus back to Kathmandu, and then fly to Lukla for the start of an 18 day trek to Everest Basecamp and over a high pass to Gokyo Lakes.

Cheers,

Dave

Dave is starting the 14 day Annapurna Trek

Hi,

After a couple days in Kathmandu, I'm heading into the big mountains tomorrow.  I met up with my Porter at 6:15am today, and we traveled together on the 7 hour bus trip to Pokara.  It really a spectacular ride as we climbed out of the bowl that Kathmandu sits in, and headed out along a huge mountain river and canyon.  I've got a sore butt from sitting all day, but it was never a boring ride.  Right now I'm watching the sunset over the Lakeside area, from the rooftop of my Guesthouse.  Tomorrow the "big" adventure begins, as we start trekking into the Annapurana region.  The plan is to trek for 14 days into Annapurana Basecamp at 4100 meter, via a number of mountain villages.  Right now we're at 700 meters, so we have some elevation to gain.  It's nice to get out of Kathmandu and breath some clean air.  Although Kathmandu is incredibly interesting with non-stop "action", it has some of the worst air pollution in Asia.  

I'm posting some photos to my Nepal Album, but the internet is pretty slow so not sure how many I'll get uploaded.  Talk to you again in 2 weeks.

Arrived in Kathmandu after 36 hours flying, airport transfers, and an overnight in a hotel in Bangkok

Well, I made it.  I'm in Kathmandu, almost exactly the other side of this round ball we call Earth.  Calgary > Tokyo > Bangkok > Kathmandu.  A bit grueling at times, but not really that bad.  Broke the trip up with a nice little hotel near the Bangkok airport for 5 hours sleep.  Kathmandu is an eye opener for sure.  I just arrived, and haven't got my head around it yet.  It's pretty chaotic to say the least.  Getting thru Nepal customs-immigration took almost an hour when two jumbo jets landed, and they only had 3 officials working the desk.  Chatted with a nice lady from New Zealand while we waited in line, which helped pass the time.  The taxi from the Airport to my hotel took almost an hour.  It was only 5 km, but the traffic is something out of this world.  I think the traffic here is more frightening than anything I've seen yet in Asia.  Even walking is pretty frightening.  The motorcycles are all maniacs.

     I met with Elsie and Ramesh, my Trekking agents and finalized the final details for the first trek to the Annapurna Sanctuary.  Elsie is an interesting lady.  She is a retired Bank Manager in her 70's, and runs a Charity here in Nepal.  She also co-owns a trekking agency.  She lives half the time in High River, and half the time in Nepal.  I got a kick out of her email address......  "stilltrekkin@gmail.com".  I will meet my Guide on Sunday, and head up into the mountains on Monday.  Can't wait.

-Cheers, Dave

4.5 months in Nepal, India, Burma, and the Philippines - Pretrip Planning

     This will be my 3rd big independent travel adventure since 2008.  The general strategy is to do a major trip every 2 years or so.  This time, I plan on spending about 4.5 months in Asia, focusing mainly on Nepal, India, Burma, and the Philippines.
     I'll be flying from Calgary to Kathmandu(35 hours) on Oct 3, 2012 and returning from Manilla on Feb 13, 2013.  I don't travel with a detailed itinerary, but for this trip I'll first head to Nepal to do some trekking, then ship my trekking gear back to Calgary before flying to Delhi to explore India for a month or so.  Then I'm back to Bangkok, to get a visa for Burma and a flight to Yangon.  After 3 or 4 weeks in Burma, I'll head back to Thailand, and then finally fly to the Philippines for a few weeks.

Trekking in Nepal - 6 to 7 weeks total, with 32 days of trekking - yikes!!
     I hooked up with Elsie James in September, to help with the Trekking itinerary and hiring of a Guide/Porter.  I'll start with the Annapurna Base-camp(ABC) Trek for 14 days, then spend a few days in Pokhara before heading back to Kathmandu.  If I really like the ABC trek, I'll confirm my flight to Lukla and head out on the Everest Base-camp(EBC) Trek, combining it with the high pass(Cho-La) over to the Gokyo Lakes region.  This will take about 18 days after the short flight to Lukla.  I'll be hiring a Guide/Porter in Kathmandu for both treks through Elsie James' trekking agency, so I'll only have to carry a day-pack.  This will be "Tea-house" trekking, so no camping or tents are involved, but the accommodation and meals are very basic.  Think sleeping bag, no running water, and basic meals supplied at the Tea-houses  There are some high passes, so elevation and cold temperatures are involved, but I'm not climbing any of the "trekking peaks", or using any climbing gear.  I'm not sure how much I'll like this type of long term trekking, as I've never done this type of multi-day hiking.  But, I'm really looking forward to the Nepalese cultural experiences, and the views of the "big mountains".

Exploring India - 6 to 8 weeks
India has always fascinated me, and it might involve some of the most challenging independent travel I've attempted.  They say you either love or hate India.  I was in Mumbai a few years ago to teach a technical course in Telecommunications, but that was for only a couple weeks, and I was staying in a Business class hotel.  This time is going to be a tad bit different, to say the least.  I'm not sure that my traveling skills are up to the challenge, but I guess we'll soon find out.
     I'll be starting in Delhi, then heading off to explore Rajasthan, Agra, Jaipur, Ranthambore NP, Bundi, Karauli, Udaipur, Pushkar, Orchha, Khajuraho, and Varanasi.  I'll probably fly back to Bangkok from Kolkata(Calcutta).  If I really like India, I might extend my travels to parts of the north such as Shimla and Amritsar.  South India is an option, and as flights are cheap, I mind head down to Kerala and Goa for a couple weeks, depending on how much time I have.

     I’ve been doing a bit of research for my upcoming trip, and happened across this BBC Series on India. The DVD includes six 1-hour episodes, narrated by Michael Wood. Michael who is a young historian who travels throughout India, and narrates this series with incredible energy. The narration and photography are amazing. I was really impressed by this series.  Highly recommended. 
www.pbs.org/thestoryofindia/

Burma - Myanmar - 3 to 4 weeks  (or Sri Lanka)

     I'll pick up a visa in Bangkok, and enough US cash to last 4 weeks (no ATMs, Travellers Cheques, or Credit Cards are accepted in Burma).  Then I'll fly to Yangon on Air Asia.
      Burma is very undeveloped compared to the rest of SE Asia, so it might be a bit challenging, but I'm hoping it will be very interesting.  My rough itinerary includes Yangon, Mandalay, the Bagan Temple complex, an Ayeyarwaddy riverboat, and the Inle lake region.
     Then back to Bangkok for a flight to the Philippines.

Philippines - 3 weeks
     I want to explore the rice terrace in the north, as well as one of the islands... maybe Palawan.  I hope to catch up with friends who live in the Philippines before flying back to Calgary from Manila.

Gear
After trekking in Nepal, I will ship my trekking gear back to Calgary, and travel light for the rest of the trip.  I'll take my new Deuter Travelpack which I used in Central America  I was trying to get the gear weight down to 10kg total, but it looks like it will be about the same weight as my previous trip (about 15kg total).  This includes the pack weight(3.3kg), a Netbook(1.9kg), and Camera stuff.

Thoughts on this Central America trip

When I read through my notes, I understand that the most memorable parts of travel revolve around meeting other people, and sharing experiences, passions, and ideas. I met some amazing people. Francois and I travelled together for 3 weeks, but most people I got to know for only a few hours or days. It’s easy to meet people, and there were only a couple times I actually got lonely while traveling solo. Meeting people and sharing stories was always a highlight for me.

When I returned to Calgary, I did not have as much trouble with "reverse culture shock" this time. I knew more of what to expect and adjusted better than after the SE Asia trip. Getting out with friends and enjoying a great Spring skiing season really helped.

I took on the challenge of learning and speaking some Spanish, and it was good for my brain to immerse myself in a week long Spanish course. I had a lovely and very patient instructor with a great sense of humor. Also, it was fun to practice the language and try to communicate with locals during the trip. Although my Spanish is not good enough for a real conversation, my interaction with people was seldom frustrating, and usually entertaining and fun. The Latino people were almost always patient, good humored, and genuinely interested. It was a pleasure to get to know a few, even if not for a long time.

I liked visiting Mayan Ruins, old Colonial Buildings and Churches, but only for short periods at a time. As long as I kept moving and experiencing new things, I was happy. I loved climbing Volcanoes, walking the beaches, playing in the surf, hiking in the mountains and jungles, walking in the busy city markets, and kayaking through mangrove swamps and up jungle rivers. I never got bored watching wildlife, colorful birds, or Pelicans fishing in the surf.

The heat, humidity, biting insects, and uncomfortable chicken buses were challenging at times, but challenges that I was usually able to handle. I even came to enjoy the crowded chicken buses with the constant stream of entertaining vendors parading up and down the aisles selling everything under the sun. There was never a dull moment.

Food was not a highlight, but the challenge of getting something tasty and healthy in restaurants, cafes, and on the street was a fun and integral part of traveling. But beer was a highlight, and there is nothing better than a relaxing Happy Hour with a cold cerveza after a day on a Chicken Bus, hiking in the jungle, or walking along the ocean surf.

Touring the busy markets and watching people in their daily activities was fun and entertaining. Every town has a Central Plaza that is an integral part of the social fabric, where families would gather every evening to socializing, watch musicians and other street performers, and enjoy some street food. Thank God there are no shopping malls in most towns and villages in Central America yet.

Having a camera, and seeing life and landscapes with a ‘photographic eye’, became an engaging activity in itself. Searching out interesting photographic subjects and scenes, and studying the lighting and composition, always turned out to be a fun way to pass the time. Keeping a Blog, and editing and uploading Photos to the internet using my Laptop, kept me busy and was a source of satisfaction. Meeting other Photographers along the way usually led to interesting discussions about photography, as we shared the same passion.

All in all, a great trip. Never a dull moment. Can’t wait for the next adventure.

Photos from Dave - Panama

I've posted a few more photos in the Costa Rica and Panama albums.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1cCjUbDqvDBttoxaA

I'm off to Panama City tomorrow, after spending a few days beaching in Bocas del Toro(30c) on the Caribbean coast, and hiking in the cool(20c) highlands of Boquete in north-central Panama.

Should be back in Calgary on Feb. 25.

Cheers,

Dave

The best way to hold a monkey is by the tail

Yep, believe it or not, it's true. The best way to hold a monkey is by the tail. I visited a wildlife rescue center in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica. They take in abandoned, sick, and injured wildlife, then rehabilitate them and release them back into the wild. It's a pretty amazing place. Part of the tour had us in a large enclosed area with about 25 tiny baby monkeys. These monkeys are very playful, and crawled all over us. Apparently they need this type of contact and play, to help them rehabilitate. Most have been abandoned. Well, some of these babies are only about a foot long, and love to swing around. Part of the instruction was to hold them by their prehensile tail. One side of the tail is grippy, like rubber, to hang on to branches (or people's arms). It's their strongest appendage by far.

They also had little baby Sloths. One was only 10 inches in diameter, and looked just like a little teddy bear. They're pretty cute, but a bit boring. They really just hang around with a permanent smile. Not much action. But Sloths have been around for about 3.5 million years, which is a lot longer than humans. That lazy lifestyle just hanging around must be the key.

On the Caribbean side of Costa Rica, I rented a bike for 4 days in Puerto Viejo and rode to some really beautiful beaches, and through a rain-forest park. Also did some hiking in Cahuita Park which I loved.

Arrived today in Bocas-del-Toro, Panama. It rained today, but just the tropical kind that come down in a torrential downpour for 30 minutes, then the sun comes out again. Looks like the downpours are forecast to continue for the next few days.

Yesterday, I booked a return flight from Panama City, so it looks like this trip is coming to an end. Should be back in Calgary on Feb. 24, and hope to get out and do some skiing before the season is over.

Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TCkzTip3r2p5fYkq6

Cheers,

Dave

Nothing wrong with Sunshine, Blue Sky, Crashing Surf, White Sand Beaches, Ocean Breeze, Cold Beer and a Hammock

Well, it may not always be that idyllic, but it can get pretty close.

Actually, I don't often like to spend a lot of time in beach towns, but once in awhile, it sure is relaxing.

I've covered a bit of ground since the last posting.

Granada - an old Colonial City (5 days)

Pretty touristy, but this town kind of grew on me after a couple days. Good restaurants, nice Colonial Architecture especially in the warm light of the setting sun.

Did a short bike ride to the beach area, but it's really too hot to do anything too active

We had a nice hotel with a swimming pool to cool off in the steaming hot afternoons

Apoyo Laguna - a huge Crater Lake (3 days)

A relaxing 2 days, doing some swimming is a huge lake in the middle of a volcano. Clean and cool. One day we did a 6am kayak trip along the shores of the lake to see the wildlife, birds, and monkeys. The echoes of hundreds of Howlers Monkeys off the jungle walls as the sun rose above the Crater Rim was pretty amazing.

Cold beers at happy hour, played some chess, and relaxed with lots of hammock time.

I said goodbye to Francois, as he flies back to Cancun and then Quebec to cool off in the -20c temps. It was great to have a travel companion for 3 weeks. We shared similar traveling styles, and it's seldom I've found someone close to my age to travel with. The only thing I hated is that he always beat me at chess.

Ometepe - a amazing island formed by two volcanoes rising from Lake Nicaragua (4 days)

Wow!! This is a pretty special place. Stunning views of the 2 volcanoes with their 'cloud hats' rising out of the lake.

The journey here involved a chicken bus, a taxi, a chicken boat(ferry), and another rural chicken bus on the island to get to my hotel.

But it was well worth it. The hostel-hotel was pretty basic, but what a stunning location. The views from the waterfront bar-restaurant looked right at the largest volcano, only a couple km away. The swimming in the lake was nice to cool off after sweating up the jungle trail to a viewpoint about half way up one of the volcanoes. I did not opt for the trip to the summit, which would have been about 12 hours, 5000' elevation gain, and 30c of baking sun.

I also did a relaxed guided day trips which toured the island in a new Air Conditioned Van. Now that's comfort compared with sweating it out on the rural school buses in the steaming heat.

San Juan del Sur - the premier Surfing Town in Nicaragua (5 days)

After a bit of searching, I found a really nice hotel right on the beach.

My favorite activity was sitting in the wicker rocking chairs of the front porch, watching the sunset on the sun, and enjoying 'happy hour' with other travelers. It's basically way to hot to do anything active. I thought of renting a bike, but that's as far as it went.

Rode in the back of a truck on wooden benches to a remote beach to spend the day. It was baking hot and I manage to find a shade tree, but still needed lots of sunblock. Fun watching the Surfers, and playing in the crashing waves

Lots of diving Pelicans, Vultures circling, and large Frigate Birds. Next time I'll bring my mini-binoculars for birdwatching.

Shared stories with lots of other long term travelers in this beach town.

Typical Prices in Nicaragua or Guatemala

1. Basic hotel, private single room with bath - $15

2. Cold beer - 75c

3. 30 minute shared taxi ride(collectivo) - $2

4. 4 hour chicken bus ride - $1.50

5. 8 hours on a Pullman bus(like a Greyhound), only run between major cities - $25

San Jose, Costa Rica - Border Crossings and taxi rides from hell

Arrived yesterday afternoon, after 8 hours on a Tica Bus(large and comfy), and 2 hours of chaos crossing the border.

Actually, the border crossing didn't really bother me this time. I think I just getting used to it. The border crossing was slow and chaotic, but not too insane. I think I'm almost getting used to these disorganized borders now. This time, I had my "fake onward ticket" printed out, which the Costa Rica customs did ask for. The Nicaraguan side was a bit bizarre, as we had to give our passports to the ticket guy on the bus, who takes them all to the Customs office, we then stand outside and wait for an hour. The Customs guy come back with the stack of 60 passports, and reads out each name to the crowd and handing each passport back. They never know how to pronounce my non-Latino name, so when they look puzzled I put my hand up, and say 'Aqui(here)'. It seems to work, but not sure how many people get the wrong passport back. I'm sure it happens. The key to border crossing is to make sure you get an exit stamp, and an entrance stamp at each side, and keep your cool.

In San Jose, I immediately got lost leaving the bus station, and slowly came to the realization that the Lonely Planet Map was totally wrong. I talked with a really helpful woman at a roadside cafe, who spoke really good English and pointed me in the right direction. I grabbed a taxi, and quickly realized the driver was totally incompetent. He was about 60, and kept trying to use his Mobile phone to dial the number of the hotel I had entered for him, which he had no success with, he kept putting his reading glasses on and off, all while swerving in and out of rush hour traffic at ballistic speeds. After I realized he could not read a map, could not use a phone, and had no idea where my hotel was, I finally got to what I thought was the right district and just jumped out. I payed him, as he still kept trying to make his phone work. Fortunately I asked directions on the street and found my hotel only 3 blocks away, just as dark fell.

Turns out my hotel is part of a Social Rights Activist center run by the Quakers. It's very clean, well run and friendly, with classical music playing. Each room is named after a famous Social Rights Activist. I'm in the 'Oscar Romero' room. He is considered a hero and martyr to the cause of Social Rights and Justice throughout Central America.

The walls of my room are full of quotes from him. This is the one above my bed.

"Peace is not the product of terror or fear. Peace is not the silence of cemeteries. Peace is not the silent result of violent repression. Peace is the generous, tranquil contribution of all to the good of all. Peace is dynamism. Peace is generosity. It is right and it is duty."

http://hubpages.com/hub/Oscar-Romero-Quotes

It's kind of nice to wake up to classical music playing in such a peaceful place